Shahi Bazar Inner View

Gwadar was ruled by the Sultanate of Oman before the government of Pakistan. Gwadar has been the center and axis of different nations since ancient times, including local Baloch. Hindus, Ismailis and people from other regions still live here today. Gwadar was a center of commerce centuries ago. In those days, Shahi Bazar Gwadar was quite famous throughout India and the Arab countries. Due to the hustle and bustle of people, the style of trade, buying and selling of various kinds of things and give and take, this market was vibrant and worth seeing. People used to come to the Bazar for business or tourism purposes from far and wide.

Jamat Khana Shahi Bazar Gwadar

But they wonder that this Shahi Bazar has not always been the Shahi Bazar, in the beginning it did not even have a name or just had a common name "Gwadar–E- Bazaar". In the 1970s, Muslim Commercial Bank opened one of its branch beside the market, the board of which read "MCB Shahi Bazar Branch". Since then it has been known as the Shahi Bazar. No one knows, nor does any Gwadarian confidently state how old this market is but every Gwadarian is confident that Shahi Bazar is one of the oldest markets in Makran Division which includes the three districts of Gwadar, Kech and Panjgur.

A rectangular old fort in Shahi Bazar, photo by Wahag

However, many people also believe that it is one of the oldest bazars in Balochistan and has been a classic public place in Gwadar for the last several centuries. The interesting thing is that it is one of those places in Balochistan which has always had the diverse cultural influence of Omani Arabs, Hindus (Ghor), Ismailis (Khoja) and Baloch communities. All these people gave birth to different cuisines and beautiful diverse architecture that still stand today, yes it is true that some of them are now in very dilapidated condition.

A side view of Omani Fort in Shahi Bazar Gwadar

When one enters the Shahi Bazar Gwadar, Agha Khan School comes first, which was once a standard and commendable center of education in Gwadar, which after a few years was closed for many reasons and is now known as Gwadar City School in the capacity of a primary school. The architecture and construction art of this school building is still amazingly charming.

Shahi Bazar Inside View During Rainy Days

Most markets in the world are spacious in terms of location but Gwadar's Shahi Bazaar starts from the head of a narrow alley on both sides of which are commercial buildings, often double-storied, made of wood and concrete, bricks and mud, an old circular fort and a rectangular shaped fort representing Omani architectural works, a rectangular shaped Omani fort (which some people also call Portuguese fort) and an Ismaili place of worship (Jamaat Khana) and their dilapidated houses, balconies which open into the market.

Omani Fort and Jamat Khan Aerial View Shahi Bazar Gwadar

The wood used for construction was often imported from Kolkata, India when cargo ships and passenger ships used to travel fully from Bombay to Karachi, Gwadar and then onwards to the Persian Gulf. Perhaps there was once laughter and joy of families ringing from these balconies of the Shahi Bazar - most Hindu families or Gorjans are still remembered by locals and then a number of Ismaili families who made it their home for a long time. Many of them still live there.

Karimuk Hotel At Night

Like most bazars on the Indian maritime coast and the Persian coast, the Hindu and Ismaili population also dominated trade in the Shahi Bazar. These communities had relocated to Gwadar for trade purposes (no one knows when) because they had connections with markets and people in other parts of the world - mostly across the subcontinent. They felt comfortable settling here and continuing their business.

Shahi Bazar Khuda Bakhsh Halwai Shop View

In ancient times, like a power house, this market was embedded in the economy of Gwadar and its surrounding areas, and therefore was important for everyday life. Shahi Bazar Gwadar had several different markets in its different parts: in the southern part of the bazaar's narrow street was the ancient fish market and Dhoria, one of the oldest neighbourhoods of Gwadar, along with Kumari Ward and Khauda Ahmed Mohalla. This was the very place which used to be the residential area of the oldest Maid (fishermen) and Kumhari populations of Gwadar (and still is).

Karimuk Hotel Outside View

A hundred or two hundred years ago, one’s perception of Shahi Bazar would have been a view full of commotion, clamor, trade and liveliness. A large number of pedestrians busy bargaining prices in the narrow street of the bazaar, buyers doing trade. Fishermen and traders heading towards custom offices for tax purposes, travelers who had come from Gwadar and nearby Turbat, Panjgur and other parts staying put in Galag waiting for the passenger ships leaving for Karachi after 15 days. These passenger ships remained functional until late 1960s. Right in the middle of the Shahi Bazar, it used to be cool during the day, thanks to those buildings and architecture which allowed the sea breeze to breeze through from the eastern streets. In olden days, this market used to add to people’s daily lives, it used to be busy, and alive and lit up the whole day and late into the night. Even several years ago there used to be at least 7-8 hotels (Dhabas) in the bazaar providing food and tea facilities. The existence of such dhabas indicates that there were many people, gatherings and travelers here. In olden days, travelers and traders from other parts would lodge in these dhabas which also provided beddings. While the locals would come for tea and mingling.

Karimuk Hotel Day Time View

 In the olden days, people would come alone or in groups in large numbers to these dhabas and hotels, to eat food and have tea, talk, exchange thoughts and discuss local and global events. Gwadar is still a very socially and politically active city and the Shahi Bazar Gwadar, especially “Karimuk Hotel” provides a space for such discourses. 

 Sayed Zahoor Shah Hashmi, one of the Baloch writers and researchers who belonged to Gwadar, had written about Shahi Bazar Gwadar in his writing from 1959: “People from different parts of the country come to this market. No place remains vacant, there is a huge crowd of people. There is noise on the radio and in the streets. This market remains alive until sunset and dies with darkness. But later at night, these hotels come alive again. And people make their way towards the hotels. At night they all light up with oil lamps. Radios are tuned on again. In some of these hotels there is the tradition of poetry and songs. And some hotels take us fifty years back. Elderly Mullah with "Tilsm-e-Hoshruba" book in front and rest of the people listening to his story quietly like his most loyal students, completely lost in the story.”

Shahi Bazar Interior View

In the olden days, all goods and commodities used to be brought to Galag by camels and then to the shops in the bazaar so the inner road of the bazar used to be very congested as no vehicles could enter inside. With the construction of road infrastructure in Makran and road links with Karachi, means and ways of exchange of goods changed. And with that shops in Shahi Bazar became less popular as no ship with cargo or passengers would arrive at the eastern coast anymore and bringing goods into the market through trucks and other heavy vehicles had become almost impossible, so the market expanded north towards Galag and made way towards Dashti Market and Jannat Market. In terms of local population of Gwadar, most of them still live in areas south of Shahi Bazar and neighborhoods adjacent to Dashti and Jannat Bazars even today. Thus, as an indication of pre-modern day Gwadar, the Shahi Bazar presents history of a city which emerged around this thriving port but today it reflects utter negligence as still no particular attention has been given to preserve the structures of the bazar. 

Some important buildings that shed light on Gwadar's past and cultural diversity include very early shops architecture, an elongated and circular Omani fort, old residences and much more extremely prominent historical assets that connect our past to the present era. They need to be included in UNESCO's World Heritage List. Similarly, a national pledge is also required for immediate preservation of these structures, to save these precious buildings from further decay, gain more historical details from them and preserve them for tourists’ interest and public awareness.

 When one enters Shahi Bazar Gwadar, first comes the Agha Khan School, which was once a quality and praiseworthy center of education in Gwadar, which after a few years was closed for various reasons and is now known as Gwadar City School in the capacity of a primary school. The architecture and construction art of this school building is still amazingly charming.

 Unlike most spatially wider markets of the world, Gwadar's Shahi Bazar starts from the head of a narrow alley on both sides of which are commercial buildings, often double-storied, made of wood and concrete, bricks and mud, an old circular fort and a rectangular shaped fort representing Omani architectural works, a rectangular shaped Omani fort (which some people also call Portuguese fort), an Ismaili place of worship (Jamaat Khana) and their dilapidated houses, balconies which open into the market.

The wood used for construction was often imported from Kolkata, India when cargo ships and passenger ships used to travel fully from Bombay to Karachi, Gwadar and then onwards to the Persian Gulf. Perhaps there was once laughter and joy of families ringing from these balconies of the Bazar Bazaar - mostly Hindu families or Gorjans are still remembered by locals and then a number of Ismaili families who made it their home for a long time. Many of them still live there.

 Like most bazars on the Indian maritime coast and the Persian coast, the Hindu and Ismaili population also dominated trade in the Bazar Bazaar. These communities had relocated to Gwadar for trade purposes (no one knows when) because they had connections with markets and people across the world - mostly across the subcontinent. They felt comfortable settling here and continuing their business. In ancient times, like a power house, this market was embedded in the economy of Gwadar and its surrounding areas, and therefore was important for everyday life. Gwadar Shahi Bazar had several different markets in its different parts: in the southern part of the bazar's narrow street was the ancient fish market and Dhoria, one of the oldest neighborhoods of Gwadar, along with Kumari Ward and Khuda Ahmed Mohalla. This was the very place which used to be the residential area of the oldest Maid (fishermen) and Kumhari  populations of Gwadar (and still is).

Gwadar Galag Shahi Bazar

In olden days, this market used to add to people’s daily lives, it used to be busy, and alive and lit up the whole day and late into the night. Even several years ago there used to be at least 7-8 hotels (dhabas) in the bazar providing food and tea facilities. The existence of such dhabas indicates that there were many people, gatherings and travelers here. In olden days, travelers and traders from other parts would lodge in these shades which also provided beddings. While the locals would come for tea and mingling. At nights, famous storytellers used to narrate stories in these shades, the streets outside had oil lamps lit powered by kerosene oil and every evening when it turned dark, an employee appointed by the Waali of Oman, ruler of Gwadar would fill these lamps placed in the Bazar with kerosene oil. There used to be a pulley to lower them down and then fill oil and again pull up the pot onto the pole. These lights were last seen in 1960. Nowadays whenever there is some electricity in the city this bazaar plunges completely into darkness. As for shades, if at all anything, there is only one hotel left which is Karimuk Hotel.In the past and even today people, alone or in groups come in large numbers to these dhabas and hotels, to eat food, have tea, talk, exchange thoughts and discuss local and global events. Gwadar is still a very socially and politically active city and the Shahi Bazar, especially “Karimuk Hotel” provides a space for such discourses.

Sayed Zahoor Shah Hashmi

According to today's necessities, it is clear that Shahi Bazar can no longer sustain as an economic hub in the way it used to be in the earlier centuries. But with complete renovation yet real construction, architecture and facilities with minimal alterations, this place can be transformed into a beautiful historical heritage and an important tourist attraction drawing attention of tourists and travelers from around the world. It can be made similar to the Mutrah and old Bazar of Zanzibar. Like those two old bazars, Gwadar’s Shahi Bazar can become a market for Gwadari or Baloch cultural industries, craft, local cuisine, historic places and public consciousness. The old structures in Gwadar’s Shahi Bazar - two ancient forts, old residences and so much more are extremely prominent historical assets that connect our past to the present era. They need to be included in UNESCO’s World Heritage List. Similarly, a national pledge is also required for immediate preservation of these structures, to save these precious buildings from further decay, gain more historical details from them and preserve them for tourists’ interest and public awareness.